- This ancient city is known for its exquisite architecture, its intricate and brightly colored patterns all over its mosaics, and its fabulous shopping and all of its very bustling souks and its Medina.

Can you guess where we are today?

(lively music) Curious Traveler is made possible by the following.

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(gentle music) (dramatic music) - Greetings, curious travelers.

I am standing right now in the first of the four Imperial Cities of Morocco.

Its nickname is the Red City because of the red clay that was used to build it, and its Medina has its own UNESCO World Heritage status.

Now it can be a bit chaotic with pedestrians and motorcycles and even the occasional donkey all sharing the same pathway, but chaotic in a very beautiful way.

Where else could we be but Marrakech?

(upbeat music) The multicolored pyramids of spices, the shimmering lamps, the cool and colorful patterns of tiles, the sounds of the shoppers and the speedsters.

Whoa.

- Again- - [Christine] All hold the history of magical Marrakech.

Marrakech is located in just about the center of Morocco, north of the Sahara Desert, south and east of the Atlantic coastline, and south of Spain and the rest of Europe.

This quick geography lesson is important because it explains how Marrakech came to be.

Marrakech was once a kingdom, and later became Morocco's first capital city called an Imperial City.

It was founded in the 11th century by the Almoravid Dynasty, who built palaces and many heritage buildings here.

Its location was just perfect as an international crossroads of trade between Africa, the Middle East, and Europe.

So here's what I'm curious about in Marrakech, Morocco.

Who built this incredible palace with all of this intricate tile work?

What is the history behind these colorful spices?

Where can you find a medieval crossroads for camels and caravans?

- Atlas mountains.

- [Christine] Why was this minaret built so high?

When was this sultan's secret garden discovered?

And how are these artisans carrying on centuries of handcrafted tradition?

Who, what, where, why, when, and how?

So much to be curious about in Marrakech.

We begin our curious journey into Marrakech with its founding dynasty, the Almoravids, who established the city in the 11th century.

They built a palace and mighty city walls, but much of what they built was destroyed by the dynasties who came after them.

Fortunately, one of the city's most wonderful historic sites which was created during their reign wasn't destroyed at all.

In fact, today it is a UNESCO World Heritage site, and is thriving.

Want to see it?

Follow me.

- What you gotta do is to keep walking on the sides.

Right or left, it doesn't matter.

- Just pick a side.

- Just avoid, yeah, avoid the middle of the lanes.

- Avoid the middle, that is excellent advice.

- And I can guarantee you guys, the drivers, they're very like talented, skillful, they know how to do it.

- That's what I figured.

This is Marrakech's Medina or old town, full of historic monuments and where we find those iconic souks.

Souk is an Arabic word for marketplace or shops, and this is where generations of Moroccan artisans have created their crafts in the same centuries-old style.

They're beautiful.

In this labyrinth of shops, nooks, alleys, and apparently it also contains four-way functioning intersections.

- Working, creating handmade stuffs.

You started getting used to it.

- Hey, I am a local, I got it figured out now, I got it figured out.

- Yeah, you have become a local.

- Oh, look at these.

Each trade or product has its own section from textiles to pottery to ironworks.

Wow, so he's obviously building a lamp or light fixture.

- Yeah, like this type of lampshade.

- To perhaps the most iconic, the Rahba Kedima or spice market square.

We've got all these great spices, all these beautiful things, and I think little flower buds.

If you don't mind, can you kind of talk me through what we're seeing here?

Are these flowers, what are these little guys here?

- These like cactus flowers.

As you see here, they're dyed and painted.

- Okay.

- This is one of the appealing stuffs that the guys present in their shops here- - Wow.

- To get guests and visitors.

- And I forgot to ask, is it appropriate to be touching and picking things up?

- It is okay.

- Okay, yeah, 'cause sometimes you're not supposed to do that.

- As long as they're presented in the main area, it is okay to touch them.

- Perfect, perfect.

- The stuffs we don't touch are usually like the spices other people they're gonna eat.

- Correct.

- So they're all in there, for sure.

- I won't stick my hands in any spices.

Now that is not a spice, what is that?

- That's like a pigment.

- Oh, wow.

- This is the indigo.

- That's amazing.

That is the most- - Once you touch it, your fingers they turn blue.

- See?

That's why I'm not touching it.

And is that where we get that beautiful royal blue that you showed us earlier?

- Exactly.

The blue that we saw earlier.

- I want my whole wardrobe to be that color.

- So we use it as well to dye the wood, to paint the rugs we saw as well before- - Lovely.

But this isn't just a fun colorful place to do some shopping.

This bright blue pigment is a piece of Moroccan history.

Traditionally, this would be pure, true indigo, the gorgeous natural pigment that comes from a plant grown only in Asia or in other parts of Africa.

So those historic trade routes would've brought the precious indigo here.

The plant was then crushed, dried in the sun, then used to paint houses, or more often, textiles and clothing.

This indigo-dyed textile was so valuable that it was often used as currency.

And for those who could afford to wear it, it was considered a very high status symbol.

All that history from this beautiful chunk of blue.

Okay, now we've got the pyramids of spices.

- Yep.

- What is this one right here?

- That's a curry.

- Okay.

- Like a curry mixture that we use to cook chicken.

- Perfect, I love curry.

- That's turmeric.

That's chili powder.

And you don't wanna have too much of it.

- I was gonna say I love spicy things but I'll probably go easy on that.

And then tell us maybe about some of these other ones here.

- We have like cumin in here, these two.

- Okay.

- Then we have what we call ras el hanout.

It's like one of the Moroccan specialties.

- And of course these pyramids of spices told the history of Marrakech as well.

The Moroccan spice markets have a deep, deep history and cultural significance.

Those medieval spice trade routes which crisscrossed the Western and Eastern worlds all met here.

Just about everything you see here originally came from somewhere else.

As early as the 7th century, traders brought salt, cumin, turmeric, chili, and ginger from as far away as India, China, and Malaysia.

I love it.

And the smells here are so fantastic.

- Really intense, yeah.

- And what we want people to know is the spice market, has this always been the spice market?

- It was.

- Is this where people would buy other spices and in huge quantities like this?

- That's it, yeah.

'Cause our cuisine, it's like any other Mediterranean cuisine, has so many influences as well and we spices the food when we eat it.

- It's beautiful.

- 'Cause we cook a lot.

- [Christine] So we've learned the history of textiles and spices, but what about the history of looking pretty?

Well, there's a history to that too, and one form of it is called Aker Fassi.

And it is believed to have originated with the Berber women living in the Atlas Mountains centuries ago.

It's part clay, part poppy flowers, and a dash of magic.

So what is this over here?

- [Seller] So this like natural lipstick.

- [Christine] Yeah?

- If you want to use it, take it with your finger with saliva or like water, like this, and rub in- - I can't believe the color that comes up.

- [Seller] And it give you like yellow or like a red poppy flower.

- [Christine] Yeah.

- [Seller] Natural- - [Christine] That's incredible.

- [Seller] Lipstick.

- [Christine] So this is clay obviously, and it- - [Seller] This is clay and this is like the poppy flower.

- So a poppy flower is dried and ground up?

- It's dried and ground up and mixed with water.

- And then used as a paint?

- Yeah, exactly.

- Wow, so there's all the layers of the, so you're basically putting a poppy flower on your lipstick.

- Yes, and you can use like a blush also.

- That's amazing.

Who came up with that?

- Yes.

- That's incredible.

- Natural organic lipstick.

- That's the most natural makeup I've ever seen- - Exactly- - I've ever seen.

- Welcome.

- [Christine] Now that we're all spiced and prettied up, let's head back into that wonderfully winding labyrinth to explore another treasured Moroccan tradition, the art of brass lamp making.

- The making of brass lamps.

- I'm gonna use you for my protection.

- Yes, yes- - [Christine] Beautiful, thank you.

Thank you, thank you, thank you.

This is also a centuries-old tradition influenced by Berber, Arab, and Andalusian art.

These beautiful lamps with oh-so-intricate lattice work and arabesque patterns and their soft light have illuminated the courtyards and homes of Morocco for centuries.

Many artisans here at the market still create these tiny little patterns all by hand.

- The old lamps.

- This one?

- Yeah.

This eight pieces all make it, not one piece.

- Eight pieces?

And then they're fused together?

- Yeah, one.

- Wow.

- This- - Yeah.

- This one not one piece, this eight pieces.

- [Christine] Yeah?

- Yeah.

- I can't even see the lines of where they're joined together.

Eight pieces, that's amazing.

And around here, it doesn't take long for a savvy salesman to approach and tell you all about it.

How long does it take you to make a piece like that?

- Example for this, for four days.

- Four days?

- Just one month, you can make it.

- I hope you charge people a lot of money for that, for four days work.

You better get a lot of money for that.

These are beautiful, you're quite the artist.

But as with most items we're exploring today, this isn't just about bargaining for a good deal.

These wonderful sparkling shimmering golden works of art are a symbol of Morocco.

Generations ago, people believed these lamps warded off evil spirits.

And today they are still treasured as a symbol of faith, as these tiny little patterns create a dance of light which chases away the shadows.

(lively music) From delicate, sparkly dances of light, in an instant, you are whooshed back into the mayhem of the souks, which was the perfect place to pause, look both ways, and point out who really does the whooshing and the whizzing around here.

Whoa.

- Again- - [Christine] The motorcycles, the carts, and sometimes even a donkey pulling a cart, but mostly those motorcycles.

- I have eyes in the back.

- You're like, I can tell exactly how close they're getting.

All right, just wait for the donkeys.

(lively music) Let's escape the clanking and the sales pitches and the near-death motorcycle crash experiences for a little while and step inside some peaceful, calming, inspiring works of art.

For that, we stay within the walls of the Medina and visit the tallest point in the city, which also happens to be the icon of the city.

This is the Koutoubia Mosque, and it's the symbol of Marrakech.

It's an architectural wonder.

With a minaret at 252 feet high, it traditionally stands as the highest point in the city.

No other building is allowed to be taller.

This great height was established back when it was built in the 12th century so that believers could be called to it from afar, and those traders could see it from afar.

Its name comes from something quite curious.

Koutoubia translates to the bookseller's mosque, named for those medieval manuscript traders who worked nearby.

Its architecture is so important that it was the inspiration for many other mosques across Spain and Morocco.

And its design includes many Islamic architectural features, including horseshoe arches, whose flowing continuous curves symbolize the Islamic concept of unity and those exquisite, intricate geometric and floral carvings.

But the most curious bit of history to the mosque is this.

To see it today, you would never guess that the entire structure was once torn down and this new one built right beside it.

This all happened in the 12th century when the new dynasty claimed that the old dynasty's mosque wasn't correctly aligned with Mecca.

So they built this new one which was adjusted by just five degrees.

Non-Muslims are not allowed inside but are always welcome to explore its gardens and exquisite exterior, and to appreciate its cultural significance and rich history.

(lively music) Next, we explore the many palaces and heritage buildings of Marrakech.

Since its founding in the 11th century and throughout its role as an Imperial City, Marrakech became the home to the ruling sultans and to important political and military leaders.

Their palaces typically were built in the Riyadh style, with rooms along the exterior and large lavish courtyards in the middle.

And decorating those palaces often was a unique form of artwork called zellij.

For beautiful examples of this design, we visit the Dar Menebhi palace built in the late 19th century for a high ranking minister to the Sultan.

As a testament to grand Moroccan architecture, the gorgeous traditional design combines Andalusian Arabic, Islamic, and Berber architectural styles.

And the palace is also where we find a little bit of peace and quiet.

(water sloshing) Amidst the hustle and the bustle and the general mayhem of the motorcycles and the donkeys and the wonderful shops in the heart of the Medina is this, the Dar Menebhi palace.

Built in the 19th century for one of the Sultan's ministers, you can tell it is definitely a palace.

Let's take a look around here in this huge courtyard area, we have all of this beautiful intricate cedar woodwork up above us.

And then down below you can hear the trickling of the water features, you have to have water features here in the courtyards, of course.

And you cannot help to notice all of the beautiful Moroccan tiles with so many different patterns.

These intricate patterns are made from handcrafted and glazed terracotta tile in vibrant colors, and then laid out in a kaleidoscope of geometric patterns.

The word zellij is Arabic for little polished stone.

And this unique Moroccan tile art evolved from ancient Greco-Roman tiles and Byzantine mosaics.

But instead of expensive marble, the Moroccan artists used what they had, local clay, which they then polished to create a sort of shiny faux marble.

Then they put together these complex mathematical patterns and designs inspired by nature.

Oh, and there was and still is one more practical purpose to this zellij art form, the cool tiles provide a bit of air conditioning here in the African heat.

Once the palace became a museum, exhibits and treasures such as pottery, textiles, even manuscripts have all been displayed here over the years.

Just off the main courtyard, you will find these wonderful rooms where, as you can see, this is where the museum takes shape.

So we have all of these beautiful cases here, the display cases with gorgeous works of art.

This particular exhibit, of course, is about this unique form of colorful pottery.

But you cannot help but notice the room itself.

We have layers upon layers of gorgeous color and design, starting beneath your feet, of course, you're gonna see those signature tiles.

This particular pattern looks like it's suns and stars repeating over and over again with these little arrow shapes and little triangle shapes.

And then when you look up, you will see gorgeous metal work here in this light fixture.

Now if you look really closely there in the middle layer, you will see the influences of calligraphy and that signature arabesque pattern that you will always see in this type of artwork.

But wait, there's more.

Go up one more level here and you can see what was done likely in stucco in white, and then painted these glorious colors.

We have circles, we have triangles, we have diamonds, we have all kinds of shapes repeating over and over again.

I'm not gonna count those for you, you can count them.

But are you ready for the biggest reveal of all?

All right, look all the way up at the ceiling here.

And we have that gorgeous cedar woodwork, painted, once again, so many patterns, so many repetitions over and over and over again, a lot of it actually mimicking the floor down below.

So I have a tip for you.

When you are here in this museum or anywhere in Morocco, get used to doing this quite a bit.

Moroccan wooden ceiling art is just as iconic as Moroccan tile art.

Every little carved nook and cranny and painted detail tells a story.

Of the many traditional techniques used are painting directly onto the wood using natural dyes, carving into the wood to achieve deep geometric shapes, and using three-dimensional sculptures of sorts to create the dazzling patterns like these.

Many different types of wood are used, but when you see cedar, you'll know that this was the most valuable.

Again, to appreciate all this art above your head, maybe bring a neck pillow.

(lively music) In other wings of the palace are more displays of the wonderful history and heritage of Morocco, and even some modern art displays.

But the real treasure, of course, is the building itself, full of moreish symbols of nature and geometry, and those oh-so-beautiful Moroccan tiles.

(lively music) (bike engine revving) Okay, I hope you enjoyed that little respite among the cool tiles of the palace because it's time to head back into the wonderfully crazy, noisy, and chaotic mayhem of Marrakech.

Yeah, we're going to need a guide.

Fortunately, we are being led through all this manic activity by the president of the Marrakech Tour Guides Association.

And true to his beloved hometown, he is just as speedy as the daily life here, so we've gotta keep up.

Well, it's chaotic, I mean, wonderfully chaotic.

We've got motorcycles going on either side, it's crazy.

This is Jemaa el-Fnaa Square, one of the first spots in the world to be given a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage status for its very important role in North African history.

Because before the monkeys and the snake charmers and the food trucks and the motorcycles, Marrakech was known as the historic gateway to Africa, serving as a hub for all those traders coming from Asia, Europe, and Sub-Saharan Africa.

And this town square is where all those caravans loaded with spices, salt, and gold would come to trade - [Christine] Then over the centuries, the square became not just the place for the exchange of goods, but also the place for the exchange of ideas, including new architectural styles.

- Perfect.

And it also became the town center for storytelling and for musical performances and general entertainment.

And today that part of the tradition continues as it is now an open-air theater of the most curious kind, including the entertainment of dodging traffic as part of the fun.

Motorcycles everywhere.

It's absolutely crazy in a really fun, wonderful way, but I have a question for you.

Do you ever get used to the motorcycles coming like this?

- Hey, they're very good.

They do know what they're doing, right?

After all that marvelous mayhem, who's ready for another little peaceful oasis?

Follow me, I know just the spot.

This is Le Jardin Secret, a secret little garden of sorts in the heart of the Marrakech Medina.

Once the courtyard of a 16th century sultan's palace later rebuilt in the 19th century but in the same style.

It was only rediscovered during a dig in 2008, and beautifully brought back to life.

To share the beauty and the meaning of this little gem in the middle of the desert is the botanical gardens manager who explains the Islamic symbolism to be found here.

I know the number four is running throughout here, we have lots of symbolism and also the number five.

- That when we see Islamic gardening is very connected to our religion, it inspires from decor, and is the metaphoric description of paradise.

And normally when we find four parts that you find also the water in the middle, which is the five elements, it reminds Moroccan and Muslim people of the five pillars of the Islam and the five praise of the day.

- [Christine] And of course the flowing water also serves a practical purpose, to support life here in the garden.

And when the secret garden was brought back to life in 2008, the builders discovered something fascinating.

The remains of a 16th century water system which was based on an 11th century technique, which uses gravity to pull water from the Atlas mountains about 40 miles away.

The water system was painstakingly restored so that all of these shade-giving trees, all these tiny little flower buds, and these bright orange dates are all being fed by that original medieval irrigation system that once pleased that 16th century sultan.

And today, Le Jardin Secret really is a little piece of paradise.

- I always say as Moroccan, that it's a big gift for Moroccans because it's a place where visitors can escape the noise of the city and can really feel the spirit of the Moroccan tradition.

- Absolutely, it's an oasis in the middle of the city.

And as we've experienced, a little peace and quiet is always appreciated here in the marvelous mayhem that is Marrakech.

So from a lovely lively labyrinth of shops ... We also have little kitties here.

Where artisans carry on centuries-old traditions of handmade Moroccan goods, and beautifully bright pyramids of spices and treasures that tell the history of trade from afar.

See?

That's why I'm not touching it.

To the feast for the senses that is the old town square, the crossroads of history full of mountains of olives, oodles of motorcycles, and even the occasional monkey- - We also have the monkeys.

- To the quieter, peaceful oasis of the many palaces bejeweled with those signature Moroccan tiles, Islamic architecture and symbolism, and sometimes even with a secret courtyard garden at its center where you can finally take a much needed shaded break before heading out into the wonderful chaos all over again, Marrakech has so much to be curious about.

Thank you for joining us on our educational journey, and hopefully now you're even more curious about the who, what, where, why, when, and hows of marvelous Marrakech.

As they say here, shukran and bslama.

(patrons chattering) (bike engine revs) Closed caption funding provided by- - [Presenter] Eden Andalou Aquapark & Spa, an all-inclusive luxury resort in Marrakech.

Moroccan-inspired suites, authentic cuisine, all set in a desert oasis.

- [Christine] Curious traveler is made possible by the following.

(camera whooshing) (gentle music) - [Presenter] You can immerse yourself in the very soul of Europe aboard a European Waterways luxury hotel barge cruise.

Europeanwaterways.com.

(gentle music) (dramatic music) - [Christine] Still curious?

Go to curioustravelertv.com and find our links to follow us on social media.

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